Cost from £2370 (excludes flights)

THE MAGIC OF PERU by Joanna Bristow-Watkins with Kathryn McCann 

Carved out by the powerful Urubamba River, the Sacred Valley of the Incas in south-eastern Peru is protected by the slopes of the Andes that surround it. The air is warm and humid, crops flourish and the agricultural terraces, originally hewn by the Incas, are still in use today.

The presence of Pachamama (Mother Earth) is strong in this primal landscape and, despite the advent of Catholicism, belief in the goddess and her powers to bring safety and abundance is strong. Before putting up a new building, it’s common practice to make offerings to Pachamama, leaving coca leaves and chicha (traditional corn beer) in the foundations to ensure her blessings.

The Sacred Valley is home to native Quechua people, who depend on Pachamama’s bounty for their survival. They live in adobe dwellings, made from the earth they stand on, and still mostly wear traditional dress as they tend their fields, working on the time-honoured principle of ayni – ‘today for you, tomorrow for me’.

The Andean people consider each mountain to be a spiritual entity – an Apu – to be honoured and respected, and shamans lead sacred ceremonies to tap into the core essence of the peaks. In their shadow, throughout the Sacred Valley, are many megalithic temples, immersed in the geo-energetic wisdom of the ancients. Sacsaywaman is a natural power site, with constructions built from perfectly engineered stones weighing in excess of 300 tonnes. Mysterious carvings adorn the rock, which probably date back thousands of years prior to the Inca Empire.  

At Ollantaytambo there are incredibly complex structures made with stones weighing over 230 tonnes taken from non-local mines. These fit together with such precision that it’s supposedly impossible to fit a razor blade between them. Ancient sources talk of an acidic substance extracted from jungle plants that actually softened the surface of the rock causing them to bond. But how these incredibly heavy and bulky materials were transported across the high altitude peaks is a subject of much speculation. It has even been suggested that the stones may have been transported by air, by a culture possessing advanced technology that was later lost.

The highlight of any trip to Peru has to be a visit to the mythical ancient city of light – Machu Picchu – surrounded by the cloud-forested slopes of the Andean foothills as they sweep down towards Amazonia. Many cultures have built at Machu Picchu but skilfully-crafted megalithic structures suggest that an ancient, highly advanced people, many thousands of years vanished, were the first to make this their home. The architecture embraces a constant flow of water, which cascades down in gentle stages via carefully chiselled channels. Water vapour disperses into the air, magnifying the combined elemental forces. The effect is truly empowering. 

The energetic climb to the top of Wayna Picchu, the iconic sugarloaf mountain next to Machu Picchu, is well worthwhile, not only to appreciate the stunning views of the ruins below but also to connect to the powerful energy vortex which runs through this sacred aerie. The climb down is equally invigorating and can take in the Temple of the Moon, a stunning example of Inca stonework aligned with the Pleiades.  

In the midst of the Sacred Valley nestles Willka T’ika, a yoga retreat and guest house created and run by Carol Cumes, author of Journey to Machu Picchu – Spiritual Wisdom from the Andes. Willka T’ika, which means ‘sacred flower’ in the Quechua language, is built completely from local natural materials. The rooms are scattered around lush organic gardens, full of medicinal herbs and fragrant flowers, which are regularly visited by hummingbirds.

Connected by meandering flower-lined pathways and arches draped with fuchsias and honeysuckle are seven sacred gardens, each representing one of the energy centres of the body. The imagery used is a combination of Andean and Asian, reflecting the fascinating fact that the traditional Andean belief system recognises the same chakras as yoga, and other eastern philosophies. There is also a huge spiral garden, which Carol felt directed by nature to create. Originally intended to facilitate walking meditation, the swirl soon also became a plant hospital, as the staff discovered that ailing plants quickly began to flourish when moved into this energetic position. There’s also an organic garden where fresh vegetables are harvested daily for sumptuous gourmet vegetarian meals, and there’s always an array of fresh herbs and hot water available to make delicious healing infusions to sip during the day.

In a secluded nook there are outdoor pools where you can bathe in solar-heated water infused with salt from the local Incan mines and healing herbs and petals. Lying in the warm, aromatic water, with either the sunlight and mountain views surrounding you or the phenomenal starlight of the Andean night above you is a deeply healing experience. The centre also has a crystal bed, which Carol brought back from Brazil after her stay with the legendary healer João de Deus, which is reputed to have amazing healing powers. As well as Andean massages and other therapies, there’s a purpose designed yoga studio, fully equipped with mats, belts and blankets. Guests are free to use the facilities at will, and can take the equipment out into the garden or one of the cosy round rooms if they prefer.  

Willka T’ika is the main base for Harmony Journeys trips to the Sacred Valley, allowing groups to really immerse themselves in the ancient roots of Peru and the still-vibrant Quechua culture. We make sure to build in enough time to take advantage of being in this inspiring place and also to fully absorb the life-changing experiences that seem to be part of any trip to this mystical land.